Blonde Ambition: When Asian clients go gold
Inspired by pop stars and celebrities in China, Korea and Japan, Asian men and women are going golden
By Anupa Mistry
Phang, whose salon regularly participates in shoots and events such as Toronto’s Alternative Fashion Week, says his clientele is about 80 per cent Asian and that their blonde looks are derived from highly influential Japanese and Korean pop stars and rock bands.
John Jen Hoe Chong, a past Contessa winner and owner of Edmonton’s Blunt Salon Inc., describes Asian hair as “more coarse and more densely pigmented. Generally, natural levels 1 to 3.” Warm tones such as red, orange and yellow are present in Asian hair and create technical obstacles when going blonde.
“Asian hair can be extremely resistant to lightening,” explains Chong. “It almost always will need to be toned.” Still, it can be done in a safe way if you take the right steps. “By taking your time and using a lower volume of developer, you can achieve a nice healthy blonde, but it may require more than one process.”
As head of the technical department at Vidal Sassoon Toronto, John Beeson colours many Asian clients. He feels that lightening colour-resistant Asian hair isn’t something he would do “basically because if you take the hair up to a light blonde, it looks totally unnatural and if you did a tint, because it’s dark, the hair would turn orange-y blonde.”
When dark Asian hair is bleached without toning, it usually ends up bright orange to yellow, explains Phang. “In order to go from a level 1 to 3 to an 8 to 10 blonde, pre-lightening is required with as many as three applications. There are different techniques involved, including using different levels of peroxide at different stages to achieve the desired level before toning.”
Dark-haired consumers with little knowledge of colour treating might apply a box of drugstore hair colour and end up with an off-brown, orange-y hue, says Phang. Chong says that in-salon colour services can result in that same brassy colour if hair isn’t lightened enough or toned properly. “The hair needs to be lifted 6 to 10 levels, depending on the desired shade of blonde. You should always go one shade lighter than the desired level to remove unwanted pigments and tone with a complimentary colour to neutralize the warmth.”
And since regrowth can be stark, Chong says to remember not to overlap when applying colour to the area since it can cause banding or breakage. “Use the same safe process as you normally would, always lifting one shade lighter to remove any brassiness.”
One of the most important considerations, says Phang, is to find the right shade to harmonize with skin tone. “Most Asians with olive skin prefer going for ash tones to balance out the yellow undertones in their skin,” he says. “Those with fairer skin tend to look particularly attractive with golden, caramel or coffee-coloured hair.”
Beeson suggests Asian clients usually not go lighter than a light tan blonde, dark blonde or warm brown blonde. “Slightly deeper colours look more complimentary. I’d be inclined to steer toward different shades of red in blue (auburn) or violet tones (burgundy). Stay away from orange tone red (copper) because they don’t work with the skin tone.”
In general, Beeson says he is wary of lightening most Asian clients, not only because the processing can be damaging, but also because the look may not suit the lifestyle, or simply because it can be unflattering. “There are exceptions to blonde when you can do it on the right client,” he adds. “But for an Asian client with virgin hair who wants to add interest, a highlight would work well.”
Chong says he always informs clients that blonde in Asian hair is extremely high maintenance. “If they are not willing to come in every three to four weeks, then I would suggest doing foils as opposed to all-over colour.”
